Bye bye blackheads - A guide to clear skin

• Blackheads are a type of acne when dirt, oil and dead skin cells plug hair follicles.
• The dark appearance is when these substances oxidise when they come in contact with air.
• The best way to treat blackheads is to stick to a regular skincare routine.
• Look for skincare ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, retinol and salicylic acid.

Blackheads might just be the most frustrating of all skincare woes.

With the pesky spots popping up out of nowhere, it makes them a real nuisance when it comes to achieving flawless skin.

It might be tempting to resort to squeezing them or considering harsh treatments – aren't those ASMR pore strip removal videos just so satisfying? But there’s a simple way to bid farewell to blackheads in the quest for clearer skin.

The solve? Adopt a gentle and consistent skincare routine. TRUELOVE spoke with the experts to give you all the tips and tricks you need to get rid of blackheads.

What are blackheads?

Let’s start by understanding the science behind blackheads and why they pop up unexpectedly.

Blackheads are a form of acne and the technical name is open comedone. There are two types of comedones – open and closed – and closed comedones are known as whiteheads. The dark appearance is due to oxidation when these substances come into contact with air.

Simply put, acne is a skin condition that occurs when hair follicles become plugged or blocked with oil and dead skin cells. Local studies show that 50.9 percent of adult women aged between 20 and 29 and 42.5 percent of men in the same age range suffer from acne.

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What causes them?

Blackheads typically appear on the face, neck, chest, back and shoulders. These areas of skin have the most oil (sebaceous) glands. Pimples occur when hair follicles become plugged with oil and dead skin cells.

“Each hair follicle is connected to an oil gland and these glands secrete oily sebum that lubricates hair and skin,” says Dr Alek Nikolic, a medical doctor in aesthetic medicine.

“Sebum normally travels along the hair shaft and through the openings of the hair follicles, onto the surface of the skin.”

When the skin produces an excess amount of sebum and dead skin cells, the two can build up in the hair follicles, forming a soft plug that creates an environment for bacteria to thrive. If the clogged pore becomes infected with bacteria, inflammation results.

This issue can be worsened by hormones, certain medications, diet and stress.

“Another surprising cause of blackheads is over-cleansing by stripping the skin of essential lipids. This disrupts the barrier function and it is important to make sure to use a cleanser that doesn’t leave the skin feeling tight or dry,” Dr Alek adds.

To squeeze or not to squeeze?

There’s often nothing more satisfying than squeezing a blackhead but this actually makes them much worse.

“Squeezing blackheads can push the blackhead deeper or even cause scarring, which can lead to larger pores. There is also the possibility of infection by potentially exposing the area to bacteria with hands and dirt,” he says.

Will they go away without intervention?

Typically, the larger the black dot is on the surface, the deeper it’s sitting in the skin and these deep blackheads often require professional extraction. Small, superficial blackheads may resolve on their own.

The Body Shop's Boitumelo Mmesi, based in the Killarney store, shares the kind of products she recommends you have in your routine.

"I'd suggest a simple three-step routine whereby it's a wash, a serum and a moisturiser. And then other supplementary products you can use an SPF for the daytime.

"Toner is beneficial because it keeps your skin hydrated and also repairs your natural barrier and also restoring it. So, you don't use toners like the old way whereby you use with cotton pads. Now we use it like directly to the skin with your fingers."

Dr Alek explains, “If home care remedies don’t work to clear up your skin, it is time to see a doctor or dermatologist, especially if the blackheads persist or are severe. There are stronger medications available including oral contraceptives and vitamin A that also help.”

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The best ways to treat blackheads

When it comes to getting rid of blackheads there are two easy ways. The first involves introducing expert-recommended skincare products as part of a consistent skincare routine and the second involves visiting a professional for a more personalised and targeted approach.

“I would recommend looking at incorporating chemical exfoliation like salicylic acid or glycolic acid (if one is pregnant or breastfeeding) and retinol. These ingredients target and break down the clusters of skin cells responsible for blackheads cleaning deep within the pores and reducing the number of bacteria.

“Retinol will further help in reducing sebum or oil production, improving pore size and minimising blackheads. Another piece of advice I would give my patients is that every skin type needs water and not every type needs oil. Consider adding hyaluronic acid to your skincare regime,” advises Dr Alek. 

Patience is key when it comes to skincare and mastering dealing with blackheads involves understanding their nature, identifying the cause factors and employing appropriate removal techniques.

Prioritise gentle yet effective methods and remember to nourish the skin from the inside out for lasting results.