The beauty of being a woman comes includes the vast choices you can make regarding the look you want to adopt and what type of hair you want to experiment with.
Be it putting on a weave, getting braids done, enjoying an edgy cut or styling your natural hair – women have so many options to play around with. And while the natural hair movement has caused many women to appreciate their natural coils and bouncy afros, some women still prefer to treat their hair chemically in order to achieve a sleek look.
Xoli Katsio, who owns a salon in Diepkloof, Soweto, and is a hair specialist for Sofn’free, says most women choose to go the route of chemically treating their hair because they find it much easier to maintain.
“Most women grew up relaxing their hair because that’s what they were taught at a young age and that’s what they know. When they get to an age where they can make their own decisions, some decide to grow their hair naturally but find that they don’t know how to care for their hair in its natural state,” she says.
According to Xoli, this is why some women opt to straighten their hair using relaxers or colouring it with dyes and bleach. Although many people find it easier to deal with chemically treated hair, but if not taken care of properly, the hair can be prone to breakage, stagnant growth and overall hair damage.
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As with natural hair, chemically treated hair should be taken care of properly, so a hair regimen should be implemented.
Xoli gives us seven ways to properly care for chemically treated hair:
1. Go for a protein treatment once a month
“A protein treatment is essential because it keeps your hair healthy. During the relaxing process, the hair's protein bonds are broken down, because the chemicals in the relaxer strip your hair of its protective layers in order to break up the curls and to make your hair straight.
“Which is why a protein treatment should be applied at least once a month to restore the elasticity in your hair and prevent the chemicals from causing damage,” Xoli explains.
Pro tip: Mizani Strength Fusion Intense Night-time Treatment contains protein and can help nourish damaged hair.
2. Using the correct aftercare and home maintenance
“Since you’re most likely to visit the salon only when going to have your hair washed or have chemicals applied to it, it is important for you to invest in products that will help you to keep your hair healthy between visits.
A moisturiser, oil or hair food, which contains natural oils with nourishing properties, will go a long way in maintaining the health of your hair,” Xoli adds.
3. Using a shampoo regularly to avoid build-up
According to the Curls and Cocoa website (curlsandcocoa.com), hair build-up is caused by having layers of products in your hair. The products are no longer being absorbed in your scalp, and therefore do not benefit your hair, but rather weigh it down.
Xoli says that because products are used daily to keep hair healthy, it is important to shampoo the hair once a week to avoid product build-up.
“Washing the hair with a good shampoo helps to remove the product residue on hair, as well as keeping the hair clean. Clean hair allows for new products to be absorbed better into the hair strands and the scalp,” she says.
4. Sleeping on a satin pillowcase or in a satin doek
“It is important to sleep correctly when striving to have healthy hair. Sleeping on a satin pillowcase or wearing a satin doek helps to keep the hair moisturised. Other materials, such as cotton, can easily strip away the oils you’ve applied to your hair and leave it dry, brittle and damaged,” she says.
Pro tip: Sinovuyo Mondliwa, founder of the Love Kinks company, specialises in creating satin doeks and pillowcases that come in a variety of colours.
5. Do protective styling
While it can be fun to style your hair in a bun and in other creative ways, Xoli says people with chemically treated hair should wear protective styles every once in a while, to protect their hair from external factors.
“In winter, the weather can be quite harsh on the hair and tends to make it dry. This is a good time to lock your hair away in protective styles, which will also help to grow the hair,” she says.
Examples of great protective styles are faux locs and box braids. These hairstyles are always on trend throughout the year and are great for switching up one’s look.
6. See a professional stylist for chemical application
“Going to the salon to have chemicals applied to your hair professionally, is always the best option. The stylists have been trained how to apply these products correctly to the hair. When people relax their own hair at home, they tend to over process it and this can result in scalp issues,” Xoli explains.
7. Avoid high-heat styling
Tools such as flat irons and curling irons are very convenient for styling chemically treated hair. However, daily use can lead to hair damage and hair loss. Xoli advises avoiding these tools as far as possible when styling your hair.
“If you really must use a straightener or curling iron, it's best to use them on a low heat, and not on the highest heat option on the tool. The constant use of heat on hair results in a lot of breakage and dryness.”
Pro tip: To create curls or more volume, heat alternatives such as curl formers and flexi rods should be used instead.
The pros of chemically treated hair:
- May be easier to maintain.
- Easier to style.
- Less knotting and fewer tangles.
- Stays straight regardless of humidity and other weather conditions.
The cons of chemically treated hair:
- Chemicals can weaken the strength of the hair.
- There is a high chance of causing permanent scalp and hair damage if the hair isn’t treated well.
- Hair can become limp.
